Thursday, September 15, 2011

Domaine Arlaud Bourgogne 2008

Winemaker’s Notes
Roncevie  is truly an insider Burgundy secret and a top value for those in the know. The vineyard sits surrounded by Gevrey village vineyards, and neighbors grand cru Mazoyeres-Chambertin. Imagine the spring-sweet flavors of cold cherry soup and wild strawberries, brightened by a hint of lemon zest. The nose is floral and fresh, with suggestions of lavender and a good shake of black pepper. Aromas are unmistakably Chambolle-inspired, with spring blossoms and purple fruits. Always a blockbuster and a wine that delivers far above its "simple" status.
The Winery
With a new, modernized cellar in Morey-St.-Denis and an organic focus in the fields, Domaine Arlaud has established itself as one of the leading family wineries in the Côte d'Or. We've partnered with Domaine Arlaud for more than a decade, yet today we believe the quality at this great family domaine has never been higher.
This is a impressive winemaking “dream” team: Cyprien Arlaud, now in his 30s, was well-taught by his father, Herve, and has worked for years side-by-side with him in the family fields in Morey-St.-Denis and elsewhere in the Côte de Nuits. Cyprien too has trained at wineries abroad, and today as he effectively runs the domaine, there is a palatable energy and renewed focus on higher quality Burgundy with each vintage. Their vineyards are organically tended—and even plowed by horse by sister Bertille, rather than by tractor. Roman Arlaud, Cyprien's talented brother, works full-time in the cellar and has assumed many winemaking duties with incredible success.
Wines from this domaine are always pure and utterly natural, thanks to the family's dedication to organic viticulture and overall smart, diligent work in the fields. Hand pruning and green harvests are the norm here; while walking through the fields with Roman during a recent visit, we could barely keep a conversation as he would pull a leaf here, tug an errant weed there. This is a hands-on domaine, and certainly the quality, purity and harmony of their world-class cuvées are testament to this.
Included in the Arlaud lineup is one of the better Bourgogne Rouge vineyards and certainly one of our favorites, “Roncevie.” This village vineyard, while classified as Bourgogne, is surrounded by fields classified as Gevrey-Chambertin village and is undoubtedly one of the finest Bourgognes for the price. The family's premier and grand crus, which include outstanding bottlings of Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint Denis, Charmes-Chambertin and Bonnes Mares, have earned serious accolades from the wine press, both domestically and abroad.  Wines are generally bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Like many parts of the 'Old World,' Burgundy is undergoing something of a revolution. For the first time, as members of the next generation take control of family wineries, they are armed with techniques and production know-how gleaned from other wine regions. They have traveled far beyond the walls of their respective villages and observed how wine is made across the world, and the results are proving to be very exciting. Hervé Arlaud, the family patriarch, has watched with pride and awe as his son Cyprien and daughter Bertille have taken the family’s winery in Morey-St.-Denis to a new level. Cyprien’s passion for clean, modern cellar techniques stands in stark contrast to his sister’s throwback approach to farming. In an effort to remove fumes and oil from their precious earth, she literally plows their vineyards by hand behind a draft horse. Taste for yourself what happens when the best of time-honored tradition meets modern know-how.
Gevrey-Chambertin
Gevrey-Chambertin wine is produced in the communes of Gevrey-Chambertin and Brochon in the Côte de Nuits subregion of Burgundy. The Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) Gevrey-Chambertin may be used only for red wine with Pinot Noir as the main grape variety. There are nine Grand Cru vineyards within the commune of Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambertin and eight others called Chambertin in combination with something else, such as Chapelle-Chambertin. While Gevrey-Chambertin also has several highly regarded Premier Cru vineyards, it has a particularly large amount of vineyards at the village level for a Côte de Nuits appellation. This is because the vineyards of the AOC stretch further to the east (beyond the N74 road) than in most neighboring AOCs.
Gevrey-Chambertin wines are highly colourful and potent for being Burgundies, with intense aromas and flavours evoking blackcurrant, cherry, musk and liquorice, among others. The potency of Gevrey-Chambertin wines makes it a suitable accompaniment to stews and strong-flavoured cooking, such as grilled red meat, leg of mutton, beef Bourguignon, rabbit stew, coq au vin, coq au Chambertin, and strong cheeses, including Époisses de Bourgogne.

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