Literally translated as "fat liver", foie gras results from the accumulation of lipids caused by the degradation of maize carbohydrate when geese or ducks are force-fed. This natural process is also totally reversible: when moderate feeding is resumed, a fat liver can be reduced to a lean liver without any problem. Not only is foie gras a healthy organ, it also contains omega-3 and fatty acids which are essential for a well balanced diet. French and European regulations specify that foie gras be obtained from a fattening process.
History
Geese and duck fattening originates from the observation of the natural tendency of these birds to eat more than usual before their long migrations. As a matter of facts the weight of some migrating birds can increase by half during this time period! From the North to the South in winter and from South to North in summer, geese and ducks “make provisions” before reaching the sky and facing the potential stress of weather conditions…
Stock breeding expansion and web-footed bird fattening development have always oscillated between a culinary art and essential human needs. The fat which is produced by ducks and geese was, indeed, a way for farmers to have food all year long; and, because it could easily be preserved (confisage), farmers had a way to store food in case of a shortage.
After discovering the delicious taste of wild geese foie gras when these birds spent the winter in the region of Sumer, situated between the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers (in Mesopotamia, geese at Nineveh are still featured on mural ornaments) or close to the Nile Delta, our ancestors were eager to know more about it… With an appreciation for food and a genuine curiosity about this outstanding and delicious liver, Egyptians (among other populations) decided to observe the behavior of migrating birds. Their patience was rewarded when they understood that geese were building up energy reserves to prepare for their long migration trip and fattened themselves, significantly more than usual…
Eventually, Egyptians and neighboring populations realized that geese created the “Foie Gras” when they accumulated fat in their liver, a genuine boost for their long journey. Egyptians were one of the first populations to fatten several kind of birds and to feed them abundantly, reproducing the natural behaviour of migrating birds. Technique followed, where each population used its own available local resources. In France, the web-footed bird fattening approach significantly improved when maize was introduced in the Southwest region during the 18th century.
Before advanced selective techniques were introduced, stockbreeders used to select male ducks among all fattened birds according to their fattening potential. Then, the chosen animals were released for reproduction purposes.
The Fattening Process
There are three main breeds that are preferred for foie gras production. They are the Moulard, Grey Landes and Muscovy. The ducks are raised for approximately 11-14 weeks before the fattening phase begins. During this time their growth is monitored and they are being prepared for the next phase. During a complete life cycle of about 105 days, the fattening phase only represents about 10 to 14 days, which is between 10 and 13% of the lifespan of the animal.
Fattening is one feeding technique among many others, used for livestock tailored for human consumption of meat and other food products. Through the fattening phase, stockbreeders simply reproduce a natural capacity of web-footed birds: stocking important quantities of lipids in their liver and in subcutaneous tissues. This natural tendency of bulimia and the ability for birds to over-feed themselves in order to build up reserves is especially observed among wild birds before they start their migration trips.
Fattening is a human action that consists in feeding ducks between 2 to 3 times per day according to species, using a well-adapted material for a very short period of time; Fattening simply consists in placing a mix of food and water into the animal’s crop. To do so, the breeder will use a tube, called an ‘embuc’, which is adapted to the animal’s physiology, especially in terms of the length of its esophagus.
The feed is administered using a funnel fitted with a long tube (20–30 cm long), which forces the feed into the animal's esophagus; if an auger is used, the feeding takes about 45 to 60 seconds. Modern systems usually use a tube fed by a pneumatic pump; with such a system the operation time per duck takes about 2 to 3 seconds. During feeding, efforts are made to avoid damaging the bird's esophagus, which could cause injury or death, although researchers have found evidence of inflammation of the walls of the proventriculus after the first session of force-feeding. There is also indication of inflammation of the esophagus in the later stages of fattening. Several studies have also demonstrated that mortality rates can be significantly elevated during the gavage period.Alternative production fattened liver can be produced by alternative methods without gavage, and this is referred to either as "fatty goose liver" or as foie gras (outside France), though it does not conform to the French legal definition, and there is debate about the quality of the liver produced. This method involves timing the slaughter to coincide with the winter migration, when livers are naturally fattened. This has only recently been produced commercially, and is a very small fraction of the market.
While force feeding is required to meet the French legal definition of "foie gras", producers outside of France do not always force feed birds in order to produce fattened livers that they consider to be foie gras, instead allowing them to eat freely, termed ad libitum. Interest in alternative production methods has grown recently due to ethical concerns in gavage-based foie gras production. Such livers are alternatively termed fatty goose liver, ethical foie gras, or humane foie gras.
Wine Pairing
The luxurious, buttery quality of foie gras calls for pairing with a good quality vintage wine, whether white, red or Champagne. In general, you should avoid young or very light-bodied wines. But, most importantly, the wine that usually works best is a wine that you really like.
The classic pairing with foie gras is Sauternes; however, there are many wonderful alternatives. The method of preparation and ingredients used in your recipe will give you clues about which wines to serve. For example, when foie gras is prepared with fruit, a wine that does not fight with the acidity of the fruit is best. Sauternes or another sweet wine balances out the acidity of the fruit with the sweetness of the wine. For a rich, creamy or spicy preparation, champagne is usually a good choice. Champagne is particularly nice with spicy foods. Savory and richly textured foie gras dishes pair nicely with heavier bodied wines such as Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon.
If the foie gras is served as an appetizer, you may want to try a good vintage Champagne, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, or even a medium bodied red. Sweet wines like Sauternes may also work well as long as the level of sweetness does not interfere with the next course.
When serving foie gras as an entree, and always depending on the recipe, the wines mentioned above will be a good match, as would Pinot Noir, Merlot, or Cabernet Sauvignon. The reds are especially nice if the recipe is served hot. Here again, a good Champagne, Sauternes or other sweet wine will do fine, always considering your wine preferences.
Among the best sweet wines, the legendary “liquid gold” Chateau D‚Yquem, is unique in its class. But a Chateau Coutet or Lafaurie from Sauternes or Barsac is also wonderful, and much more affordable. From the same region of France is Montbazillac, or Jurancon, two less expensive alternatives to Sauternes. Muscat, Port and the great California late harvest wines will also complement foie gras.
LINKS
For a video of a visit to Hudson Valley foie gras producer.
For PETA's opinion on foie gras.
For a look towards the future of foie gras production.
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